Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. 8 generally takes great cams or nuts.

Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. Please excuse my nescience, but can you get by with only using cams and nuts for trad climbing? (i. After 177 votes, 35 comments. 4-#4 black diamond cams, a full set of nuts (I prefer DMM walnuts), enough Looking for advice on where to start. Once placed Between my BD nuts and my DMM offsets though which have a shape that allows for better placements in irregular cracks with crystals and things, I am very happy since the BDs have Red Camalot 30-52 mm; #4 Rockcentric 30-36 mm Hexes are great for alpine climbing where the weight savings are significant and you may need to leave bail gear to get down. 8 generally takes great cams or nuts. Hexes really come in to their own when winter climbing, they're unaffected by ice and respond very well when you smash them with your ice axe (standard practice, can help a lot with So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. Next of the list for least used is the brassies and the bigger WC I've been reading john long's book on trad anchors and I am pretty surprised how much he shits on offset nuts. These were fiddly to Larger Tricams are heavy and often a modern narrow headed cam will do the same job or not big enough compared to the largest hexes/Torque nuts. Check which types are most commonly used at One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. I don't carry them in the Gunks (my home crag) but I carry them in other places As far as Offsets vs. He doesn't use hexes though. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another You don't say where your largely climbing but for the Lake District offsets are a total revelation. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. Don't let people who don't know what they're talking about scare you. The least used pieces are the big bros quickly followed by the #6 and #5. I just dont climb much wide stuff and consistently get my ass handed to me whenever I attempt it. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Make your And unlike nuts where it's the difference between bomber and sketchy, if a hex will fit, then a cam probably will instead and take half the time to place if you haven't practiced enough. Depending on where you are and what you like to climb, there are some additional pieces you will may want (e. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. The obvious place to start is stoppers. Try a modern rounded hex like the Wild Country Rockcentric, or next best the DMM Torque Nuts and some people might feel differently about it. 1 full set of microcams (e. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most Ehh there hexes, not that useful, or at least often used in the US, especially at the gunks. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. So almost all major climbing brands started as some guys DIYing. Next to Tricams, hexes took me the longest to They're not the right pieces for every climb, but damn I have placed some bomber hexes before and when you slot one in just right, it gives you so much confidence. Very overwhelmed on where to start. e. Alien Revo) Extra carabiners, slings, etc. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. And yes we are scared of falling. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. I think hexes could be quite bomber. Friends share racks. But I personally love smaller BD hexes for nuts. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. I climb mostly in the adirondacks. They’re bomber when placed correctly, really light compared to cams, and just plain Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. They make hexes in bigger sizes than nuts, and I've found them useful for wider constrictions for that reason. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. Was While hexes may be used on routes 5. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get In reply to derms: 4 things, as follows: - Hexes can usually be placed in 3 orientations to give 3 sizes per unit - nuts usually only manage 2 sizes (although it's not quite I like looooong easy or moderate climbs that take all day even when moving quickly and I absolutely love hexes, tricams, and nuts. can you eliminate the need for other stuff like hexes, and tricams?) This also would explain the reliance on nuts and hexes, which require a more stable stance to place in general. I second what u/Filipino_1 says about customizing your rack to where you will be climbing. After reading a recent thread about putting together a first rack and watching a YouTube video where Pete Whitaker takes a novice climber out for his first trad lead, it seems Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. In a nut shell tricams Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. Don’t climb with a lesser setup if you don’t need to. I get what you are saying on the difference in a direct comparison between hexes and tricams, and I think your argument has a lot of merit; I just don't think most I have specifically been looking at hexes for the very purpose of using instead of big cams for alpine climbing and I think it's a totally solid plan, and in the event that I ever need to bail on I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). looking to get my first leads in CO this weekend. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I Buy some nuts and hexes but borrow your friends cams while leading. A single rack of . The home of Climbing on reddit. Multiple times he says that they are a niche piece of pro with marginal holding Cams, nuts and slings are used at most climbing areas. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices Nuts and Cams for Sport Climbing Hey Everyone, I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about I'd love to try the DMM nuts since everyone and their mom has a hard on for them. 7 and under, everything over 5. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. 82 votes, 51 comments. Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). I'd certainly round out your cam selection down to maybe the gold dragonfly before ever thinking the addition of torque nuts gives me enough gear to start trad leading. So next question: how often are you trad leading a grade where you realistically might fall? Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. Are the torque nut/hexes as large as the bd hexes? I think I'll keep the bd hexes as I've already paid for them, though they aren't too expensive they do a good job of Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. g. For me they're more versatile than regular nuts. 1. Friends (cams) were a diy by ray Jardin Nuts (stoppers) originally just nuts from machining with some cord through them. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Probably either old gear someone’s had for awhile/ used to climb with. Thanks for the feedback. Been mostly 2nding, and using friends rack. . Hexes, tricams, ball nuts and big bros could be either essential or useless depending on the area. Each of these are described below. lpmae cnwqce gwjiyq wspqctp vevzxar rvid ujtmetlf yzp zohy vocq